Lucknow has a reputation that arrives before you do. People talk about the vegetarian kebabs, the sheermal, and the nimish. They talk about it the way people talk about cities that take food seriously at a civilisational level. I explored the cuisine for one day, and I knew it would not be enough. Here is an honest account of what happened.
Tunday kababi: The only logical starting point
Tunday Kababi is a must for anyone visiting Lucknow – It’s quite literally an institution! I arrived at Tunday Kababi at 10:30 am on a Sunday morning, and there were hardly any people inside. I ordered my first round of vegetarian kebabs (2 portions) with roomali roti and green chutney. As I contemplated ordering another round, I quickly reminded myself that this was just the beginning of an incredible day of eating ahead of me.
Aminabad market: Where you walk and snack
Aminabad is one of Lucknow’s oldest commercial areas. It is dense, busy, and full of small food stalls tucked between textile shops and perfume sellers. I walked slowly through the lanes after the kebabs. A stall near the main crossing was frying sheermal, a saffron-flavoured flatbread with a soft, slightly sweet centre. I had one piece. Then I had another. It is the kind of bread that makes you question every other bread you have eaten.
Dastarkhwan: For the biryani that needs no introduction
Lucknow biryani is different from Hyderabadi biryani. It is lighter, more fragrant, and built on the dum method, where the rice and accompanying vegetables are slow-cooked together in a sealed pot. The spicing is gentle, adding to the unique flavour.
Dastarkhwan is the place most Lucknow locals point you to. I arrived for an early lunch. I ordered mutton biryani and a bowl of raita. The portion was large. The biryani was everything the reputation promised. I ate slowly and felt no guilt about it whatsoever.
Hazratganj: A walk worth taking
Hazratganj is the commercial centre of Lucknow. It was developed during the period of British colonisation and is characterised by wide pedestrian walkways, buildings with a lot of character dating from that time, and a much quieter “buzz” than some of the other parts of the city.
I walked through here after I finished my lunch. I didn’t need to eat, just to get some fresh air. There are many different kinds of shops along the main road where you can buy sweets, take away cold drinks or have a coffee or a light meal from an outdoor café. I stopped off at one of the bakeries for a cup of tea and a biscuit. Sometimes it is nice to just walk without a plan between your larger meals.
Royal Café: Basket chaat and nothing else
Chaat in Lucknow is its own category. Royal Café in Hazratganj is famous for one thing specifically, basket chaat. This is a delightful, crisp fried potato basket filled with tangy, sweet, spiced filling.
I reached Royal Café at around four in the afternoon. The place was busy. I waited for a table, ordered the basket chaat, and ate it faster than I intended to. It is the kind of snack that disappears before you realise you have finished it.
Prakash Kulfi: The only way to end
Prakash Kulfi has been around forever. The malai kulfi at Prakash Kulfi is thick, creamy and extremely cold. It is otherworldly compared to what you would get in a regular restaurant.
I had one stick standing outside the shop at around six in the evening. My feet were tired. My stomach was full. I was completely content. By the time I finished dessert, I understood why so many visitors who book hotels in Lucknow end up wishing they had planned an extra day or two in the city.
What one day in Lucknow actually gets you?
One day in Lucknow is enough to show exactly how much you are missing. I did not have nimish, the light milk dessert made only in winter mornings. Neither did I have nahari. I did not have makhan malai… I only scratched the surface!
Lucknow is not a one-day city; it is likely not a three-day city. It is a city that beckons you back and gives you enough reason for you to return.